Monday, March 24, 2008

What's pink and white and drunk all over?

The sakura have come to Tokyo, a rite of spring that involves celebrating the burst of cherry tree flowers by stretching out under the dark branches with your friends and enjoying an abundant supply of alcohol.

















Make no mistake: the tradition of hanami, or flower-viewings, are serious business. Like so many spring flings, the parties started as a way to celebrate the end of winter and to remind everyone to plant his or her rice. But while the tradition is centuries old, the blossoms themselves last less than two weeks in different regions of Japan as the flowers open up in a ripple from west to east. It means people take off work, assign various food and drink duties to their friends, and even stake their claims in cemeteries to get a prime spot to watch the flowers fall.

On Sunday, we got our first taste of festivities as a few branches began to turn white and pink. At Ueno Park, people had already starting staking their claim, laying out their tarps along walkways. By next weekend, it'll be hard to even walk through a park. People will spread their blankets, sit and talk, and watch the flowers fall. Once you get the keg in place, it's a joyous yet slightly lazy way to welcome spring, a parade of petals that comes to you.

Along with the actual flowers come all things cherry-flavored: ice cream, mochi, and, I swear, I even saw pink eggs at the grocery a few days ago. Last week, a friend at work brought in juyenmanju, sweet little fried pieces of dough filled with sweetened red beans. These 10-cent treats (hence, the 10 yen name) come in cherry flavor this time of year. I popped a few before I stopped to take a photo. It's so easy, right now, to swoon a little at all things pink. I assume my cheeks will be a little rosy and I'll be a little swooning this weekend as well.

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